A passion known as Duende

Duen-de. It's name means (1) a passion or inspiration, and (2) a spirit. No other name or definition would be as suitable for this little niche tapas bar that occupies one of the prime corners in Leederville. The decor is beautiful, backlit by flickering candles in jars and bright smiles from the alternative range of staff working. There's the option of inside or outdoors seating and an arrangement of high stools, low intimate tables and booths for larger groups. And the best part, is that this Spanish influence tapas bar is all about great food.

That's the reason it appeals to me so much. It's seasonal, inspired and has enough variety that even those who aren't particularly fond of tapas as a dining option, they would be unable to leave here dissatisfied.

In case you aren't reading between the lines, let me say it clearly because it's quite important. Duende is my favourite restaurant in Perth. It has been for some time now and it will continue to be for the foreseeable future. It has a special quality that suits dates or even catch ups with friends. The vibe changes but the food quality never does.

On my most recent visit here, I've gone with my best friend Vee. Every now and then we get dolled up and go somewhere to catch up over an amazing meal. As a person who didn't used to be particularly fond of share food, she's now on the same side as me and celebrates tapas for what it is. A chance to feast on more flavours and more ingredients.

At the core of Duende, that is truly what it comes down to. The chefs understand food. They rotate the menu based on what is seasonally appropriate, and often enough to keep the loyal clientele that dine here returning with eagerness to try what's new.

Like every other time I have gone to Duende, the night has to start off with a serving of the sweet corn and manchego croquettes ($14). I am just unable to get past them, they're too wonderful. Four crisp squares stacked atop of a thick smear of peperonata sauce that is the brightest orange. The outside of the croquette is crunchy like all should be, and the inside creamy and somehow luxurious. I could eat a million of these and have my palate never tire.

One of the dishes Duende is famous for is their homemade paella, which changes from day to day with the ingredients featured. 

I'm a huge fan of this, loving how its served to the table in the pan with prawns or rabbit sitting high amid the chunks of saffron infused rice. It's impressively generous and though homely, is unlike anything you'd find anywhere else in Perth. 

However, for Vee and I, it's just a bit too much food so we go for the next best thing - the prawn and chorizo paella balls with paprika sauce ($14). They're a tiny taste of the paella; moorish little balls of heaven that are well seasoned with a great selection of textures. It's accompanied by a gloriously smokey sauce that elevates the dish to the next level.

The next dish that catches our eye on the menu is the scallops which have been lightly seared to a golden brown on each side but are pale and fleshy in the centre (around $19 I think). Cooked just right, they sit on top of a crunchy celeriac rosti that is suprisingly delicious. In the centre of the plate is a fresh and vibrant salad that offers a nice zing to accompany the mild flavours of the ingredients in this dish.

Our final savoury dish for the night is pork belly ($24) which is accompanied by roasted quince and cider crackling. It's very clever and a different spin on your traditional chunks of pork that have the crackling attached. The flavours are intense and have great impact; the pork salty and sweet at the same time. 

Like all good meals, ours finishes on a sweet note. Our dessert is a citrus sorbet alongside a passionfruit mousse and nougat. Easily one of the best desserts I have ever eaten! The sorbet has some quince in it which throws me off slightly, but when that's all gone I'm focused on the mousse which is incredibly light and fluffy. And it has the unexpected twist of popping candy inside. Oh my days! Vee isn't so sure about the micro herbs sitting on top but I like them - they offer a nice savoury cut to the sweet dish. 

I actually want to swear on here. To just write a string of obscene things so as to bring across the flavour explosion in my mouth. Every dish was cooked perfectly with fresh ingredients and carefully crafted to ensure maximum enjoyment. 

There isn't one thing I can fault about this place. And if you tried to say something bad to me I'd probably throw something at you... actually no I'd listen and then take it as an excuse to go back to "test" their food. Maybe I should encourage bad reviews in that case...

Date: Saturday, 25 August 2012 at 9pm

I can eat again! Yes, it's time to rejoice because my gums are healing nicely and my oral surgeon has given me the go ahead to start eating normally again after my wisdom teeth surgery.

So after a couple weeks of soups and icecream, it's no wonder that Jeremy is eager to take me somewhere I love and know that I'll enjoy the meal at. He suggests Duende and I am very quick to respond with an enthusiastic 'hell yes!'.

We eat relatively light since we've both had late meals during the day, choosing five smaller dishes on the tapas menu.

As per usual, we go for the sweet corn and manchego croquettes ($14) and paella balls ($14). But for the rest of our choices, we try something new. The menu's changed somewhat and there are some phenomenal dishes by the sounds of what's written down.

The baked camembert, quince and sour dough ($15) dish arrives on a wooden board; the cheese wrapped up like a little present for us to open. It's creamy and melting ever so slightly and definitely the best camembert I've ever eaten. When we spread it atop of the bread it coats it richly and is enhanced even more by the thick quince relish that looks like tomato sauce. It's a modern take on a cheeseboard, and we're extremely taken by it.

However it doesn't take us long to start diving into the next dish that comes our way. The mojo chicken wings with avocado raita ($10). They might have been small, but they definitely packed a punch! Jammed with so much flavour, we lost our cutlery and relied on fingers as we nibbled away with gusto. The chicken is tender and spiced in a way that makes you want to keep eating. And then there's the avocado raita. Possibly one of the best things ever. It looks like guacamole but has that great yoghurt flavour rolling off your tongue. I kept this after we finished the dish so I could dunk my bread in it happily.

Our final savoury dish for the night is the one I'm most excited about. Cuttlefish with chilli jam and green mayo ($17). At first I'm a bit worried by how small the serving is, but thankfully the cuttlefish is stacked high under the pools of sauce and it is cooked just right. It has that resistance when you first bite in, but falls apart in the first couple chews. 

The chilli jam is spicy and plentiful, it gets my mouth salivating in that great way chilli can do. And then there's that green mayo which is creamy without being overly eggy. There's so much there that I keep going back to redunk each bite in it. 

Our night finishes off with a dessert to share since we're both actually quite full. We go for the doughnut balls with condensed milk icecream (around $15 from memory). It's a very decent size dessert and we tuck in happily, savouring the cinnamon and sugar rolled sweets. It's decadent without being sickly, and the right combination of textures and temperatures. A very sweet and enjoyable way to finish celebrating my return to the dining world.